How To Get Rid Of Coyotes On Your Land

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Learn how to get rid of coyotes for your safety and know how you can make a profit off of it or use it for winter survival.

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Tips, Tricks, and Ideas on How to Get Rid of Coyotes

The Ultimate Guide on How to Get Rid of Coyotes on Your Property

If you've ever wondered how to get rid of coyotes on your property then you've come to the right place. We've compiled several expertly crafted articles and videos to teach you the basics of how to get rid of coyotes, as well as tips and tricks to trap a coyote live.

Trapping coyotes requires a ton of patience. Not only are they shyer than other small animals, but they're also incredibly fast.

First, we have this video guide you can watch on How to Make a Coyote Trap, with the steps to follow. Then be sure to keep reading because we also have Basics of Coyote Trapping, Trapping Coyotes: Sets to Trap Problem Coyote, and Trapping Coyotes with Debris Mounds below.

Check out the post below to see the complete guide on how to get rid of coyotes lurking around your place, and be sure to send us your own trapping tips in the comments section!

How to Get Rid of Coyotes with a Trap

As you can tell, you have several options when it comes to setting your own coyote trap. In the video below, outdoor expert Heith “Gonzo” Gagnon shows how to get rid of coyotes with a step-down trapping set.

Check out the step-by-step breakdown below to see how to get rid of coyotes.

You Will Need:

  • Dirt Sifter
  • Trap (Gonzo uses a Duke #4×4 coil)
  • Stake or drag
  • Trowel
  • Kneeling pad
  • Some sort of pan cover
  • Groundhog hammer
  • Bait (he uses Minnesota Brand predator bait)
  • Lure (he uses GH II and fox urine)
  • A small bucket of dry dirt
  • Antifreeze (if the weather calls for it)

1. Find a Central Location

The best location for a step-down is somewhere the coyotes are likely to cross. Gonzo sets his trap in a field between a trail and a gate.


He also recommends putting one trap on either side of the gate; this makes it more likely to trap the coyotes.

2. Begin Digging an Area for Your Trap

Make it about 10-12 inches wide and 18-20 inches long.

3. Dig a Hole Behind the Step-down

Make the hole about 6-10 inches deep. Make sure to wear gloves so you don't leave too much scent behind.

4. Dig a Deeper Hole for the Step-down

This is where you'll insert your trap, so make sure it's wide enough. (His trap of choice is a Duke 4×4). Leave some loose dirt over the top of the hole.

5. Sprinkle Antifreeze Over the Hole

A little bit of antifreeze will keep the dirt and trap from freezing in cold temperatures.

6. Hammer Your Stake into the Trap Bed

This will hold your trap tight into the ground. If the dirt is soft enough, it should go into the ground pretty easily.

When you're done, pull on the trap to make sure it stays in place. Add more loose dirt to cover the chain.

7. Set Your Trap for Coyotes

Wedge your trap into the hole, then add more loose dirt to make sure it's secure. Add a sheet of crumpled wax paper to the top of the trap, then slowly sift more dirt onto the top.

Carefully smooth the dirt around the trap, then add more antifreeze to keep the dirt fresh.

8. Add Bait and Lure

Lastly, add your bait and lure of choice to your trap. In the video, Gonzo sprinkles fox urine as a lure on a nearby shrubbery, and then he sticks a small flower into the hole for bait.

And there you have it! Your trap is set. Be sure to check out Gonzo's video to see the full tutorial and to hear more of his expert trapping advice.

In the articles below, outdoor expert and writer Jared Premo explain the ins and outs of trapping coyotes. Check out this post to learn more, and be sure to post your own trapping tips in the comment section below.

Basics of Coyote Trapping – Trapping Coyotes 101

Trapping is a good way for kids to explore the outdoors, learn about animals, their habits and habitats. For some people, the desire to trap never fades even as the years pass.

For others, the desire to trap doesn't come until later in life. The following is, in essence, the basics of trapping and what could be, in my opinion, the best way to get rid of coyotes.


This will cover the most popular species trappers' target. The basics of trapping will also cover methods experiences trappers use to trap them.

1. Beavers and Muskrats

Two of the most popular species trappers pursue are beavers and muskrats. Experienced trappers tend to trap beavers and muskrats in the winter. But trapping these species may be easier for a beginner in the spring and fall.

The most commonly used trap for beaver is the 330 conibear. Check your local state laws; sometimes the law requires this trap to be fully submerged in water.

You should stake the trap in areas were beavers like to hang out. These are places such as dams, bank dens, beaver lodges, culverts, and/or canals between two bodies of water.

Beavers prefer to be in slack water, which is what beavers create when they build dams. Slack water, which used to be known as ‘the stand of the tide', is a short period in a body of tidal water when the water is completely unstressed, and therefore no movement either way in the tidal stream.

A good way to find places to trap beaver is to contact the county highway or land department. Many times they are having problems with beavers and are very happy to have a trapper take care of the problem for them.

Muskrats can be found in the same areas as beavers. Wetlands and large ponds are great locations to start your search for muskrats.

The simplest way to trap muskrats is to stake a 110 conibear along the run leading up to the den or house. If you look closely around the house or den you will notice trails the muskrats have made when they enter and exit the house or den.

You want to place the 110 conibears as close to the den as possible. Check with your local regulations, in some states and areas within a state the laws may be different. In some areas, it may be illegal to bait the trap and laws that regulate the distance the trap can be from the den.

2. Coyotes and Foxes

Trapping fox and coyote require a little more patience. Fox and coyote tend to be a little more trap-shy than beaver and muskrats.

Thus, the best time for a beginner to trap fox and coyotes is in the fall. We recommend a foothold trap–1.5 for foxes, and two or three for coyotes.

The best places to set these traps are on the edges of fence rows where different types of crops come together. Areas like tractor ruts or trails through the grass are also great places.

Foxes and coyotes like to take the path of least resistance. This tends to be a rule of thumb for most furbearers.

Remember coyotes and fox are part of the canine species. Their ability to smell far surpasses humans.

This is why scent control is a must. If you plan on trapping fox and coyote you need to minimize your scent.

You can do this by wearing rubber boots and gloves and by boiling your traps after you buy them and after each use.

The most common type of set to trap coyote and fox is the flat set or dirt hole set. These two sets are the most effective and easiest sets to construct.

To construct the dirt hole set, simply take a clump of grass or brush for a backing. This will help by directing the fox or coyote to approach the set in the right direction.

Dig a hole that slants towards the backing. The hole is where you will place the baits and lures.

In front of the hole, dig out an area big and deep enough to place the trap and cover it with dirt without creating a mound. This is the trap bed.

When you place the loose dirt over the trap you want the dirt to blend in with the surrounding area and look natural. The last thing to do is to place some bait into the hole and cover the bait with a clump of crass.

3. Mink

Mink live near water and will find food on land and in water. Look for mink on the edges of water such as lakes, rivers, streams, and other wetlands.

For the most part, you want to set traps within 5 feet of the water's edge. The best trap for mink is the one and 1.5 sized foothold traps.

The best kind of baits to use is mink musk and muskrat musk. Bait may not be necessary then.

You want to select a spot on near the water's edge where you see mink tracks and the trails they have been using. Make your trap bed and place trap in it and cover it with leaves and grasses to make it look natural and blend in with the surrounding area.

A tip from the experts, place sticks on both sides and the back of the trap bed to guide the mink to step on the trap.

4. Raccoon

Raccoons can be found almost anywhere in North America and are a very commonly trapped furbearer. The critters can be found mostly in wooded areas and near water.

Raccoons are a very curious creature, and because of this, they can be trapped in almost any setting. The most common trap to use for a beginner is the 220 conibear.

Raccoons are also very predictable creatures–they will use the same trails along streams, ditches, rivers, and ponds. You can set a 220 conibear along these trails, for best results.

Above is just the basic a new trapper should know. Never stop educating yourself about trapping and trapping techniques.

The best form of education is to find a mentor passing down years of wisdom to the younger generation.

RELATED: How To Identify And Stop The 8 Top Predators That Prowl Your Homestead

How to Get Rid of Coyotes on Hunting Land: Sets to Trap Problem Coyotes

Trapping coyotes is one of the ways to get rid of coyotes. Coyotes are more rewarding and more gratifying compared to other furbearers because they are much more cunning and tactful than other furbearers.

If you run a trap line long enough, you will come across a coyote too hard to trap. Trapping coyotes who escaped your trap or has busted one of your sets is not an easy task.


But, a little preparation and a little step back will do the trick. Trapping coyotes no matter how trap-shy they are can then be an easier task than once thought.

1. Coyote Digging Traps

Nothing is more frustrating than walking up to a trap sprung by a wise coyote. Your best bet in this situation is to pull the trap because you had your chance.

Trapping coyotes from this location will be next to impossible. Trappers may often attribute the sprung trap to the wariness nature of the coyote, and fail to evaluate they may be the one doing something wrong.

In this situation, it could be how you have set the trap or an issue with how you are carrying your trapping gear. The coyote is digging up the trap because it smells something on the trap.

The most common cause for the scent to be on your trap is the traps and tools' scents are being carried in the same compartment. The best course of action is to clean your traps and keep them separate from then on.

Now you are ready to reset the trap.

2. The Wise Coyotes

Trapping coyotes who escaped a trap before maybe the hardest of all coyotes to trap. For good reason, they know the potential dangers.

Trapping coyotes with a previous encounter with a trap will avoid your set altogether if it has the faintest hint of something amiss. In this situation, a trapper must be fully aware of the entire process of making a coyote set.

This includes paying very close attention to scent contamination. For example, don't put your traps in with your scents and try to make yourself as scentless as possible.


Also, include trap placement and bedding of the trap during the creation of the coyote set. If still, you can't trap the wise coyote, try a hay set.

This should be constructed in a short grassy field. First, take two NO. three footholds and place them about 18 to 24 inches apart.

Next, cover the traps lightly with hay, and create a small mound of hay in between the traps. Then, add an appropriate amount of gland lure or bait to the center of the mound.

The set should be the size of a two to three-foot circle. The science behind the hay bale set is its place with the coyote's instinct to catch food.

Coyotes encounter hay all the time and associate it with food, generally mice. Instead of approaching the hay cautiously, they approach with ease.

When going after mice, coyotes jump into the air and land on the hay trying to trap the mice. But hopefully, in this case, it will be a trap they land on.

3. The Shy Coyotes

A trap-shy coyote is one who is able to identify traps out of the ordinary surroundings. Many times a coyote is able to identify sets because of overused scents.

Trappers generally use too much gland lures and baits in a basic set. This smell will be associated with the sets and will trigger alarms keeping the trap-shy coyote far away.

To remedy this, try to use baits and lures not used in the area yet. You can try to make your own.

Chances are, the coyotes have not smelled your homemade lure yet. Another option is to use a scent post set.

Bed the trap carefully and put only a drop or two of urine from a fox, coyote, or bobcat on what you are using for a post. Coyote encounters this type of scent marking all the time in the woods.

Trapping a coyote who already saw all the tricks you are trying to throw at it can be frustrating at times. If a coyote isn't falling for your sets, it's for a reason.

Sometimes you need to step back and try switching it up a little. It can be a small thing, making all the difference.

How to Get Rid of Coyotes with Debris Mounds

To trap coyotes on farms and wide-open areas you should spread sets sticking out like a sore thumb. Trapping coyotes is difficult because they are runners and may travel 10-15 miles each night in search of food.

If you want to effectively trap coyotes, you want the sets to be very noticeable from a distance to catch a coyote's attention and to draw them in.


Coyotes don't hunt every square inch of the area they call home, they hunt on the go. This means you need the coyotes to see the sets from across the field.

In order to trap coyotes this way, the placement of this coyote set is important. You want to place this set at least 15 yards from any woods or hedgerow.

Coyotes feel more comfortable investigating sets and holes in the open as [opposed to] sets tucked close to a cover or a brush pile.

1. The Mound

The first thing you need to do is to rake as much of the surrounding crop debris and dirt as you can into a large pile. You need the pile at least 18 inches high and about four feet long, and in the shape of a crescent moon. In a cut cornfield were the stubble is still standing, you need to build the mounds higher than 18 inches to be seen by the coyotes over the stubble.

The idea is for the coyotes to see the sets from a half-mile away. If you've done it right you will be able to see the set from the farthest point of direct viewing.

After you have the mount made, you want to have the area around the mound to be bare dirt–the larger the better. The bare dirt helps put the coyotes at ease, and want to investigate the set a little more.

2. The Hole

Now for the hole; you need the hole to be placed in the concave of the crescent mound. This is the first step in directing the coyotes to the set and to step on the trap.

You want the hole to be five or six inches wide and about 18 inches deep. Approaching coyotes should spot the hole right away.

It also helps to round the edges of the hole. This helps in two ways by making the hole look bigger and also makes the hole seem as it is being used. This helps with the visual aspect of the set.

3. The Trap

Even with guiding, such as the crescent mound, it is still difficult to get the coyotes to step in the trap. To increase the chances of trapping the coyotes you want to use a large trap such as No. 3 Bridger or 4. Sleepy creek.

Also, because of the pulling force of the coyotes; it is a must for you to cross stake each trap. Many times you will hear people say, guide the coyotes with subtle cues such as a small rock or a tiny stick on the loose jaw side.

However, for this set, you want it to be a little less subtle to guide the coyotes on the trap. To accomplish this you need to set the trap so the dirt covering the trap is about an inch deeper than the surrounding dirt.

Also, rough up the dirt around the trap where you don't want the coyotes to step. You want to encourage the coyotes to stand exactly where you want when he comes to investigate the set.

You need to place the trap about a foot from the center of the hole. This is the sweet spot where the coyotes will stand when he is investigating the hole.

4. Baiting

Once you have the attention of curious coyotes, you will need to keep this attention. To do this, you need bait.

You want a chunk of rendered meat the size of a golf ball soaked with a solution of beaver castor and other secret ingredients from a local maker.

The type of meat doesn't matter too much anything such as, chicken, turkey, squirrel, skunk, muskrat, or whatever else has been found on the road.

To survive the cold, you need to keep warm. This video from Sask Hunting will show you how you can make a coyote fur hat:

If you want to know how to get rid of coyotes on your land and keep your livestock, family, and yourself safe, you might as well know you can make good use of it for survival. The furs of these animals prove to be valuable for survival purposes.

Be responsible for your traps though, and make sure to follow the laws and regulations when trapping and hunting for coyotes.

Have you any old yet effective trick on how to get rid of coyotes? Feel free to share all about it in the comments section below! 

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How To Get Rid Of Coyotes On Your Land |

Editor’s Note: This post was originally published on November 9, 2016, and has been updated for quality and relevancy.

14 Responses to :
How To Get Rid Of Coyotes On Your Land

  1. SANDRA BRUNS says:

    Trapping is a cruel cruel way to get rid of any animal shame on you. There are other ways to get rid of coyotes. I would you like it if your leg was caught in a metal vise grip tearing away at the flesh and tell you have to lay there and bleed to death and die. If I ever find a trap I will destroy. No I don’t like coyotes killing livestock and stuff but I will not be inhumane. Shame on you for this article it is very offensive to me

    1. Nope Noway says:

      Amazing naivety.

    2. Will Makit says:

      i’m an animal lover too, especially canines. But all it takes is one morning seeing your entire stock of chickens, turkeys, and ducks slaughtered – only partially eaten, killed for the bloodlust alone- and you will give not one tiny bit how the yotes meet their demise – you’ll just want them dead and gone.

      1. Mike OFlynn says:

        this is 100 per cent true Will Makit!

      2. Diane Stovall says:

        Been there done that, but I still won’t use leg traps. That is going backwards as we have better ways to kill varmints

    3. Vicky says:

      Hey, here’s an idea! Instead, of replying on the AGA site, reprimanding & complaining, why not give an alternative suggestion?

    4. Jim Portillo says:

      Boo who! Go back to your gluten-free, save the earth, defund the police, black lies matter home and don’t worry about the rest of us who are truly involved with nature and the environment. Go make a tofu sandwich.

      1. Anonymous says:

        Come on guy, show some class. I grew up hunting and still will and will kill any varmint around my house or barns. Do I want to see ANY animal suffer, NO . I also have no use for 2 legged varmints.

  2. Gary Beran says:

    In my 78 years of farm experience, if your flock was killed and just left there uneaten, it was probably dogs, not coyotes or raccoons or any other wild animal. Domestic animals are the only ones that kill for fun. Coyotes and raccoons are there to kill and eat their kill or take it with them for their mates/pups – no food left behind. The only things left behind are lots of feathers.

    Ok, so you’ve trapped and removed all these wild animals from your land. What is going to keep the resulting population explosion of the field rats under control? And, as the field rats proliferate, how do you plan to live with the rattlesnakes that are attracted to their now plentiful food supply?

    So you decide to control the rats by placing poison in the fields to kill them. Now, whatever poison is in the rats is transferred to whatever animal eats them, and they die. That means your dogs and cats and other pets, and your neighbors’ dogs and cats and pets are poisoned as well.


    1. Anonymous says:

      Totally agree! Dog packs can and do cause moree damage then coyotes. Stray cats are the same.

  3. Peter says:

    When I used to live on a ranch, many, many years ago, we kept the coyotes away (after losing many chickens, calves, and small dog to them) by simply shooting one dead and hanging it on the barb wire fence at the edge of the pasture. The others got the message and left our ranch animals alone by leaving the immediate area.

  4. Don W says:

    i live in town, the coyotes are living behind me in the high school soccer field, how do i make them move on without killing them, I would prefer not to kill them! I have already talked to the city Biologist, they will do nothing to remove them!

  5. Annie says:

    I am amazed that a photo of a species that DOES NOT EXIST in North America is being used to represent a coyote. This looks nothing like any coyote I’ve ever seen.
    I know what it is, but you folks obviously don’t.
    Try getting your stock photos from people who don’t label them as something they aren’t.

  6. Anonymous says:

    Yes, the photos aren’t coyotes, at least most of them

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